£85 for a replica football shirt. That is the cost for many of the shirts of the premier league clubs so many of us know and love. For some fans, it is the cost of loyalty to their club; to others it is an unreasonable cost for just one shirt. However, the price tag of the shirt doesn’t give us the full picture: behind the badge, there is a much bigger financial and human story to what players and fans wear on matchday.

The bigger picture.

In our modern day world, football shirts have evolved from just t-shirts to global commodities, and the foremost expression of loyalty to our clubs. Manufacturers such as Nike and Addidas compete with other top brands to secure the signature of many world-leading clubs. This brings massive revenue, allowing them to continually increase shirt costs. The release of new kits every season as well as home, away and third kits creates even more opportunities for profit.

However, behind each shirt there is a complex network of clubs, manufacturers and retailers worth over $12 billion all trying to make money from the same shirt.

What is the cost of one football shirt?

The cumulative cost of manufacturing a football shirt can be broken down into some simple groups.

The average cost of a men’s premier league shirt:

• Fabric, sewing and shipping: £8.50
• Marketing and licensing fee: £9.50
• VAT: £13
• Manufacturer profit: £16.25
• Overall cost: £47.25.

Notably, this only adds up to £47.25: the club retailer generates an income of roughly £37.75 before their own costs are considered. In spite of the quick transaction at the point of purchase, these t-shirts are the product of a much larger chain.

Shirt sales also create opportunities for massive sponsorship deals, helping clubs generate huge profits. For example, Manchester United generates over £170 million annually from shirt sales and sponsorships alone – there is immense economic value motivating clubs to sell these small football shirts.

With our final purchase, and acquisition of the final product, we are moving one small cog in a massive industry.

What is the human cost?

The cost of football shirts has increased by more than £65 over the last 40 years, an increase of roughly 300%. These sky-rocketing costs have priced out many loyal fans, creating fertile ground for a new industry: counterfeit football shirts.

The counterfeit shirt industry is estimated to be worth £180 million annually. Fake kits are priced at as little as £9, a far more accessible cost. The cost of living crisis has only increased the allure of fake football shirts.

However, the kits are often made in poor working conditions; workers are thought to be paid 70% less than the minimal working wage in countries such as Bangladesh. This creates an ethical question for many supporters. Do you show your loyalty to your team if it increases suffering or ruins the lives of many exploited workers?

So, next time you buy a £90 football shirt remember that the price represents far more than the just the badge. Behind it there is a million-dollar industry, a network of clubs, retailers and manufacturers whose separate costs are far less than you might think.